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Check out the Oersted Technology article at http://oersted.com/magnetizing.PDF.

This is an old EDO SIMM.
Knowing that — and knowing that MT meant Micron — I did a Google search for "micron edo memory datasheet" and found: www.pjrc.com/mp3/simm/datasheet.html which says (among other things):
 

4, 8 MEG x 32 DRAM SIMMs (OBSOLETE)
DRAM MODULE
MT8D432(X)
MT16D832(X)
 

For the latest datasheet revisions, please refer to the Micron website: www.micron.com/mti/msp/html/datasheet.html.
 

FEATURES
• JEDEC- and industry-standard pin-out in a 72-pin, single in-line memory module (SIMM)
• 16 MB (4 Meg x 32) and 32 MB (8 Meg x 32)
• High performance CMOS silicon-gate process
• Single 5V ±10% power supply
• All inputs, outputs, and clocks are TTL-compatible
• Refresh modes: RAS#-ONLY, CAS#-BEFORE-RAS# (CBR), and HIDDEN
• 2,048 cycle refresh distributed across 32 ms
• Fast Page Mode (FPM) access or Extended Data-Out (EDO) Page Mode access
 

OPTIONS
Options                         Marking
Timing 
50 ns access                     -5*
60 ns access                     -6
  
Packages 
72-pin SIMM                        M
72-pin SIMM (Gold)             G
  
Operating Modes 
FAST PAGE MODE           None
EDO PAGE MODE                X

*EDO version only
 

Part Numbers
EDO Operating Mode
Part Number               Configuration            Plating
MT8D432G- x X                4 Meg x 32                  Gold
MT8D432M- x X                4 Meg x 32               Tin/Lead
MT16D832G-x X               8 Meg x 32                  Gold
MT16D832M-x X               8 Meg x 32               Tin/Lead
x = speed
 

FPM Operating Mode
Part Number               Configuration            Plating
MT8D432G-x                    4 Meg x 32                  Gold
MT8D432M-x                    4 Meg x 32               Tin/Lead
MT16D832G-x                  8 Meg x 32                  Gold
MT16D832M-x                  8 Meg x 32               Tin/Lead
x = speed
 

Pin Assignment (Front View) See diagram below.
72-Pin SIMM
4 Meg x 32
8 Meg x 32
 

PIN    SYMBOL      PIN     SYMBOL        PIN     SYMBOL         PIN     SYMBOL
1         Vss              19          A10              37          NC                 55       DQ12
2         DQ1              20          DQ5             38          NC                 56       DQ28
3         DQ17            21          DQ21           39          Vss               57       DQ13
4         DQ                22          DQ6             40          CAS0#          58       DQ29
5         DQ18            23          DQ22           41          CAS2#          59       Vdd
6         DQ3              24          DQ7             42          CAS3#          60       DQ30
7         DQ19            25          DQ23           43          CAS1#          61       DQ14
8         DQ4              26          DQ8             44          RAS0#          62       DQ31
9         DQ20            27          DQ24           45          NC/RAS1#*   63       DQ15
10       VDD              28         A7                46          NC                 64      DQ32
11       NC                 29         NC (A11)      47          WE#              65      DQ16
12      A0                  30         VDD             48          NC                 66      NC
13      A1                  31         A8                49          DQ9              67       PRD1
14      A2                  32         A9                50          DQ25            68       PRD2
15      A3                  33         NC/RAS3#*  51         DQ10             69       PRD3
16      A4                  34         RAS2#         52          DQ26            70       PRD4
17      A5                  35         NC                53          DQ11            71       NC
18      A6                  36         NC                54          DQ27           72        Vss

*32 MB version only

If this isn't the right part, then try www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=MT4C4ME8.

The schematic and parts list shown below is from the three page article “The Solid-State Bird,” by John Simonton, Jr. It appeared in Popular Electronics Spring 1973 “Electronics Experimenters Handbook.” (A scanned PDF of the entire article can be viewed or downloaded here also.) The foil pattern measures 2 7/16" x 1-3/4", or 71 x 44 mm. While searching, I also ran across two additional "bird sound" circuits: Dec. 1981 Radio Electronics "Electronic Bird Chirper" — four transistors, total 25 parts; and 1993 Popular Electronics Electronics Handbook "Hot Canaries" two LM324s, one transistor, two 1N914 diodes total 54 parts (no critical parts; parts count includes 9V battery, switch, and speaker).

I remember using a SN76488N 'sound generator' to build 'sound' circuits, such as train whistles, crowds cheering, birds chirping, and sirens, etc., for electronic games and other projects, but then I started to think about producing sounds as realistic as possible but in a less complicated way. Here's a possible solution that you might want to consider. I went to RadioShack and purchased a few of those handheld voice recorders [available at www.tmart.com] that allowed about a 10 to 15 second recording time. Pressing one button allowed recording, and pressing another button allowed audible playback. Removing a few screws, I simply wired a micro-switch in parallel with the playback switch and, when pressed, could instantly and repeatedly hear what I had recorded until I recorded over it with something else. I wired the output of the recorder to the input of a small audio amplifier [using an LM386 IC circuit] for a clear and loud output. I wanted a crowd cheer each time a hit was made and a trumpet blare every time a man crossed home plate in my electronic baseball game. I was fortunate enough to have these realistic recorded sounds already programmed on my Technics keyboard. I simply pressed the record button, recorded the sounds, and then wired the recorders into the game. You can easily record real bird sounds for your project. You can store all bird calls into a memory chip and then play back, record, and use as needed.

First, I would recommend checking out the ‘Chaser Light Marquee’ in Smiley’s Workshop here on N&V.
 

If that doesn’t work for you, I would recommend building something with presettable shift registers, aka parallel-in parallel-out shift registers.
 

There are a number of different versions of those, the 74198 and 74199 are TTL versions, and there is the 4035 which is a CMOS version (4 bits per chip).
 

The idea is, string enough of those together to have the number of outputs you want, then use switches to set the input states (thus which LEDs are lit on startup).  Tie the last used output bit to the serial data input of the first chip if you want the data to cycle around once loaded.  If you would rather the pattern get reloaded once all bits are shifted out then you need a way to reload when terminal count is reached (a comparator or just an up or down counter).
 

Once the data is latched, let the clock run at your shift rate and you’re done.
 

You need a clock (555 for example) and a way to load the register(s) upon powerup.

By "LED chaser," I assume you mean a circuit that will light a series of LEDs one at a time in a sequential and cyclic progression. You can accomplish this using the MC14017 Decade Counter IC (download a datasheet from www.onsemi.com). A single MC14017 will provide 10 LED outputs. Figure 3 in the datasheet illustrates how to wire together several MC14017s (with the help of MC74HC08 AND gates) for obtaining more outputs (40 LEDs will require five MC14017s). You can drive the LEDs directly from the MC14017 outputs with a series resistor (~ 470 ohms).

You'll also need an oscillator source, and an LM555 is the easiest way to do this. A convenient calculator for determining component values is available at www.coolcircuit.com/tools/ne555_calculator/index.php. You can use a potentiometer to make the oscillator frequency variable. If you make the frequency 10 Hz, for example, each LED will light for 0.1 seconds, and it will take one second to cycle through all 10 LEDs.

All the components you will need can be ordered from Jameco (www.jameco.com). You can use the 74HC4017, 74HC08, and LM555, and any size/color LED you like. The figure below is a basic schematic diagram to get started.

The only displays I’ve seen recently are basically ‘VGA flat panels’ or LCD flat panel displays. Expensive, but with LED flat panels you should get pretty close to real black and real white…  (for example, at the local Pei Wei they have large 50” flat panel TVs for their displays, and the local credit union I use does a similar thing). Here are a few companies that sell such things.

Displaytech (www.displaytech-us.com/?gclid=CKXvjJXo9q8CFSoZQgod60iTUg)

Purdy (www.purdyelectronics.com/products/displays/tftmodul.cfm)

IDT (www.toshibadisplays.com/?_kk=LCD%20display%20panels&_kt=41098ecd-8c7b-4102-b602-a2891f16f4c3)

Planar (www.planar.com/?campaignID=70150000000TpWT&_kk=planar%20displays&_kt=77205abe-b0e5-448e-ad71-fdd9273e5e74&gclid=CP6Nrabo9q8CFcYBRQodDXzDDA)

Good luck finding a display that actually displays black. About the only thing that would come close is an "electronic ink" display as used on an Amazon Kindle. Most displays — whether CRT, LED, incandescent, etc. — generate light. Black is the absence of light and with a CRT (picture tube) or LED display, the blackest black you're going to get is with the display off. It only seems "black" in the presence of all the contrasting colored light around it. Look at your TV with power off. That's its blackest black. Really! It doesn't seem that your "256 colors" is a good definition of "nice, rich, high-resolution colors." Your local paint store has more color chips than that by far and it's certainly not "high resolution."

Go to www.jameco.com and search for part number 32803. It is a DTMF Generator number TCM5089. Click on one of the three data sheet options to download and print the PDF.

Try searching on eBay for "DTMF encoder." I found more than a few there, but they aren't cheap.

DTMF ENCODER GENERATOR *** $34.00 *** 11 Days
www.ebay.com/itm/DTMF-ENCODER-GENERATOR-/400302522698?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d33e3c14a

HT9315C HOLTEK DTMF MULTIFUNCTION ENCODER CHIP *** $3.89 *** Only 1 day
www.ebay.com/itm/HT9315C-HOLTEK-DTMF-MULTIFUNTION-ENCODER-CHIP-/150826386913?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item231df405e1

DTMF ENCODER KIT WITH 16 KEY KEYPAD + TX KEYING OUTPUT *** $30.32 *** 10 days
www.ebay.com/itm/DTMF-Encoder-kit-with-16-key-Keypad-TX-keying-output-/270993370582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f1876add6

While these will all probably be sold before you read this, you'll most likely find others. I'd ask the "Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET" place since they may have other chips.

The IC for DTMF encoding is a TP5089 from National, or a second source is TCM5089 from Texas Instruments.

It is available from Jameco (Jameco.com) as TP5089; their item #32803.

It's listed as available from stock on their website. You can also download datasheets from them to check before ordering.

I googled "audio FFT for PIC libraries" and got several hits for arduino and Rpi libraries Give it a try, I think you will find what you're looking for.

The original part is shown at www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Start-Device/RF685018/1569121.

The three terminals on the device are C, S, and R. C is connected to the COMMON of the compressor, with S being START winding, and R being RUN winding.

I'd suggest replacing the original device, and adding the proper MARS hard start device to kick the compressor. You don't want to bypass the overload! PERIOD!

MARS Motors & Armatures, Inc.,  has hard start devices and torque multipliers for refrigeration/AC compressors. I've used a smaller MARS hard start device on several refrigerators, and they work fine. (www.marsm-a.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+R06630136135017015394091+ML6+ENG).

I can't find the paperwork on the last MARS device I purchased. Any local HVAC distributor should be able to locate what you need, depending on the compressor size. It's just a two wire hookup.

I'm including a PDF document from MARS and my refrigeration document for you to view.

I work for a major appliance repair company/retailer. Replacing the factory compressor start device with an after-market hard start kit is not recommended. Most of those kits — if not used or sized correctly — can cause permanent compressor failure. I would suggest trying to source the correct part by model and serial number of the refrigerator. There is a major appliance parts dealer in Cincinnati and Dayton that can help. If you can not find a model or serial, I suggest Whirlpool part number 8201786. This kit covers several different compressors, as well as wiring connections.

I've bought PTC starters for refrigeration compressors from www.repairclinic.com on a few different occasions. A local appliance shop with a parts counter should be able to supply them too, either OEM or a universal replacement. The "hard start" kits you can get are nothing more than a standard PTC starter, overload protector, and capacitor stuffed into a housing. The one time I tried one of those, it failed within a few weeks.

If you want to try rolling your own, this schematic is said to work although I've not personally tried it. Digi-Key, Mouser, and other electronics distributors carry a selection of PTCs and bimetal circuit protectors that could be used.

Go to any well stocked refrigeration supply house and ask for a universal compressor starter.

This will be a device with leads. (I have no idea what's inside.) Connect it as shown on the package, removing the existing starter device.

These things work every time. Be sure to leave any original thermal protective device intact.

They can also be used on small air compressors that use PTC devices as starters.

Here is documentation for a typical thermostat. Make sure you know what voltage your existing system uses before making a purchase.

I think the schematic is self-explanatory

You can ask the expert at Northern Tool, but I am sure he will tell you that this is a single phase, 220 VAC generator and cannot be used as a motor. A three-phase generator could possibly be used as a motor, but 60 Hz machines don't like to be run at other frequencies so variable speed would be a problem. You would need a clutch and transmission.